OKAY FOLKS! HERE IS IT! 3 weeks of action in the bushes of Africa! I have just arrived COVERED in dust. I am now black, and everyone else white. Fresh pineapples, cashews, bananas and sweets shoved in my face every stop for over 10 hours! BUT I am now here, where internet lives. If you have a cup of tea (iced tea would be nice about now) and some pop corn, feel free to read my adventure thus far!
First day in Machanga: Aug 19th
Well, Steve and me woke up at 4:30 am to get packed and leave on our endeavor to Machanga. Our plan was to leave yesterday, so we got all packed up but got rained out, and had to turn back. So we picked up Joao (a local who works with Steve at the MCC office), and Mr. Magengue (the pastor of a local church) with all my loot at headed out. Unfortunately we got quite far out until Steve realized he had the wrong license/registration for the truck we were in and had to turn back to get it. So our 8-hour trip already added on an hour. The truck was literally packed with my stuff and so I couldn’t move for hours> I better get used to it, because it is how it will be transporting in-between Beira and Machanga the rest of the year. It was hours until we hit the first rest stop and Joao bought us some locally roasted cashews form a vendor… soooo good… freshly roasted and since they are local a 2 lb bag was 100 metikaish (about 4 dollar). To make this long adventure shorter, we got to the Machanga sign, which took us from the main and only road going from the Mozambiquan boarder to out of country, onto a dirt road. To be honest, I wondered sometimes if we were going to make it, especially when oncoming trucks zoomed by and we dodged onto the side almost tumbling over. I can even say Winnipeg roads were better.
Finally we got to this church and watched the kids come tumbling out of every direction to see us, 2 whites (me and Steve). Joao and Mr. M know Ndau the local language and spoke to them. I felt helpless at times when they spoke Ndau, and then Joao translated to Steve in Portuguese and then Steve to me in English. I hope my languages come along.
We waited around for a while then were led into an ‘extravagant’ (for African-bushman standards) house. It was cement, unlike the thatched roved huts around. We were served a meal of shima, rice, and 2 kinds of fish and salad. It was amazing! After we headed out to the girls school center of Machanga, which is where I will make my home. It is all gated off and woman from the inside saw us and opened the gates for us. I told myself ‘this is home’ and was lead to cement building with a sticky, scraping on the ground door. ‘This is home’ I said as I entered the quiet large cement room with one bed in it for me, and 2 gigantic tarantulas on the edge of the ceiling and wall. I shall name them later. The other girls share at least 7 or 8 others in it, and they gave me my very own. I felt absolutely glutinous as they helped unload all my loot. Suitcases and a new mattress a dresser and a rack to hang hangers and one small table. It is all my furniture but much more then they all have put together.
After dumping my things and setting up my bed and mosquito net I was led into another room of the same building where the girls came and lined up. Tia (aunt) Casilda, and Tia Amelia, and the rest of us sat up at the front and they sang to us. I tried so hard not to cry, it was so beautiful! Then I had to present a speech in Portuguese! What! Well, I told them I was from Canada, and want to learn many things from them and I have many things I want to teach them. It was very broken but I did it and we all laughed and they clapped hysterically but appreciatively. These are my irmahs > my sisters.
Steve, Mr. M and Joao left back to Beira. It is just the Ndau and I. I was informed that even some of the girls can’t even speak Portuguese! I must learn!
Tia Casilda is a very beautiful woman, but very stern in the face and acts very strict. While we were alone in my room she began to help me set up. She examined everything with curiosity and with familiar things she told me the name in Portuguese and then in Ndau, their language. I was very cautious to open everything and show them right away, because I know this is a culture of everything is everyone’s, and so far… I don't want anyone to know I have this computer… they have already taken a HUGE liking to my digital camera. They have NEVER seen it before and cant believe it.
The Ndau have 3 showers a day here in Machanga. Before I knew it, it was dark and Tia Casilda let me to the bathing area. Some shacks with buckets of freshly warmed water for me. So I washed myself under the millions of stars! I couldn't how many there were! Then when I got out of the bath, hot rice and sweet coconut and fish was served. Ohhh it was so delish! After I sat outside with the Tia’s and the night guard George and learnt some Ndau and Portuguese.
Minha primeira noite en Machaga: I got under my mosquito net and tucked it in. could barley sleep the whole night because I have so many ideas of what to teach the girls and what I need to learn before I can even call myself a teacher. I think the side effects of the malaria pills wanted to kick in because I started to have some freaky dreams while I wasn't even asleep yet.
A Full day in Machanga: August 20 / 09
To wake up, before breakfast, lunch and dinner and to go to bed there is a chime that is rung. The chime is some deep, metal contraption that rings a deep, almost haunting sound. It rang at 4:45 am. Still very dark out, I left my room and all the girls were sweeping the dirt ground. I asked to help, and they always think it is strange that the teacher wants to help, but they showed me. Casilda has taken me in like her apprentice, or a daughter. I’m not sure. She leads me around and where she goes, ‘Vamos’ (lets go), I go. We sit and watch the girls carry buckets of water to and fro and watch the sunrise in an instant. She showed me to sweet my floor and wash it. I will do this each morning. As I unpacked some more of my things, I came upon my new East-Indian bell dancing-belt from Reyna. I put it on Casilda and told her to shake her hips and I showed her and she laughed so hard. She called in Anna-Marry whom I already love. She can’t do the same work as the girls because she has one leg, I assume because of the old grenades’ left in Mozambique from the civil war. She put it on and laughed. Long story short> more girls came until my room was crowed and laughter all around.
Anna Marry and I went to buy bread and they have served me each meal at a table and chair they set up in my room. Everyone eats together but in their rooms. I don't mind the alone time because during the rest of the day I have been surrounded.
I went to the village shops and market with Casilda to buy a capolanah (chitangy/ sari) and a lenso (head scarf) and they dressed me up. I am now an mulher de Africa (African woman). The Tia’s show me around and when I ask where I can refill my water, it is done for me, my food, my bathing water,,, everything so far is set up for me. I will want to get to do it myself, but it is learning in progress. I sat in one of the huts with a Portuguese schoolbook and everyone gathered around to teach me verbs and tenses. It was so useful… and I taught them English, which they keep asking and craving for. Casilda especially. I am always surprised at the random things she knows like : blouse.
Miriamo, Julia and Maria took me to a field near Machanga’s secondary school to play futbol. We played with other girls from Machanga, and got to even take off our capolanahs b/c we were out of the girls center, and wear shorts. All the guys watched us play from the side. It was so fun!
The day ended like it started. Many people in my room, laughing with and at me. I taught them some ‘Canadian dance’ and they taught me some samba, and some songs in Ndau. Time to stop attracting mosquitoes with this laptop light.
Boa noite.
Alexis
Aug 22 / 09 / Sat.
HAIR > the past time of African woman. Wherever there is a spare moment, which there are many, there is a group of woman braiding one another’s hair in some interesting fashion. When it is a muzungus (white person) hair that is being braided, the group is multiplied. I had at least 4 girls at a time making tiny weaves in my hair, and at least 15 watching at once in awe. Whenever a string of my hair detached from my scalp and floated in the air they grabbed it to examine it. On lookers awaited their chance to snag another free strand. They were all very pleased when I danced around and twirled my new transas (braids). Ahh, the days are sweet so far. I never fail to entertain the girls whenever I open my mouth. I sat outside last night for dinner with Anna Marry. Then many girls joined. I am still figuring out when they are speaking Portuguese and when they speak Ndau, because they switch so frequently. I know that they are talking about me when they said ‘mazungu’, which means ‘white’ in Ndau. So I asked in Portuguese how to say black: ‘msench’. So I said “when someone calls out and points ‘hey Masungu’ I said ‘hey Msench!’” and they laughed so hard and repeated this to every girl who came after from hearing the laughter.
Today was Saturday, and so we woke up at 5:30 am instead of 4:45 am. The girls take very good care of me to ensure I know what’s going on. Anna Marry came to my door and took me to another house in the center where all the girls and the Tias were gathered. It was some kind of meeting. They had a chair set up for me with the Tias, over looking the girls sitting on the floor. The meeting began and the topic was ME. My Portuguese has come such a long way and I could pretty much understand all of it except when she began to speak Ndau. But I could tell her intentions by the strict tone in her voice. So far they have been calling me ‘sister’, but Casilda put an end to it. I am NOW Tia Alexis > Aunt Alexis. Then I was told I must learn all 44 of their names. They each stood up one at a time and gave me their names. Yicks! There are four Mary’s! All in all, Casilda means business; no one messes around with her.
Casilda realizes how much I love Africa, and she loves that I have a camera too, so today we went on a journey to Mambone (Mam – bone- eh). We walked and walked and walked and talked as well. We have this relationship that we joke like sisters and learn like friends, but she takes care of me like a mother. She is as eager to learn English, as I am an African life. To get to Mambone, we had to cross a river in a canoe. I love adventures. Mambone is such a hub of commotion. So many things to buy and for a better price then Machanga. She showed me all the good places and told me to take pictures, then I would show the owners and they were so exited that I had to take more pictures of their friends to show them, and so on…. I’m surprised my battery is still alive in that thing! I bought some fresh fruit juice and later because of the heat I bought me and Casilda a fresco and a coke in glass bottles (which are ½ the price of cans b/c they are recycled locally and cans are not at all). We bought coconuts for the center and the woman like me so much she gave me my very own 3 coconuts, shaking them to make sure there is fresh milk inside. Casilda lifted this HUGE bag of coconuts on her head and walked along as if it weren’t even there.
Even after we got back to the center, I thought it would be time to rest, but Casilda had more things to show me and more things for me to take pictures of and show people themselves in my digital camera. I striped rice of their casings with a big mortal, ate fresh snails raw, sat in a freshly made African hut etc. As the sunset, I was told it was time to sing. I followed, and found all the girls in a line ready and with one cue from a girl they broke out into rehearsed song and dance. I followed the steps and got the dancing down and they barley could sing they were laughing so hard that a white person danced to their songs. They want me to teach them Canadian songs next Saturday… anyone have some good ideas.
They take such good care of me. I constantly have girls coming to me during the day telling me that its time to bath. They boil the water when it's a chilly night and always put a bucket ready for me. I should enjoy this pampering while its here, because I know soon I will be very much apart of this community and help like this wont is needed.
Casilda's favorite line of mine is “Eu nao sou mulher do Canada. Eu seu mulher da Machanga! Vei, eu tenho a capolanah, lenco, e tranza” (I am not a Canadaian woman, im a Machanga woman. See, I have a capolanah, headscarf and braids)
Aug 24 / 09 – if you have arachnophobia, perhaps I wont invite you for tea
The night before last, I thought I was back in Winnipeg for Folk Fest. Drumming and shouting was heard clear in the distance all night…. ALL NIGHT! (I actually stopped caring after 9 am when there were other sounds to distract me). I later asked and found out it was traditional shaman music. Perhaps the music played all night because the shaman was trying to raise something from the dead and it took all that effort. Along with the magic, a young lamb caught its string in a tree and sounded like it was choking its self, as packs of local wild dogs bit each other and fought and squealed. (these sounds seem to be frequent during the night). I do have earplugs (that barely cut any sound out), but I could not sleep because I had some mice running around my room and in all my things, rustling bags etc. at first I thought it was the tarantulas that I saw earlier, but no, I looked on the walls and saw they were just hanging out with 4 other gigantic friends. I took some pictures, which reveals their ugliness more then I would like. So I spent the whole night with my rolled up yoga matt in hand banging on everything and chasing this stupid (but really sneaky) mouse around my room.
Finally the sun rose and the day began. We walked to a church, which was people gathering under trees. The woman sitting on a tarp and everyone else on logs. To keep it short > the whole service was in Ndau and the whole thing was dedicated to my being there! I was presented to everyone in song and dance and with these elderly but full of energy woman, jumped and danced in front of the congregation under a giant cashew tree. I don't deserve such attention.
I’ve been trying to find a routine and help out around the place. I still have girls telling me its time for me to shower, its time to wash my cloths etc. So today I helped water the garden in the morning and pump the water. I took the initiative to wash my cloths and hang them on the fence like the girls. Unfortunately it was very windy today and some cloths got blown off the fence into the bushes and some dirt… at least I tried.
When I bring out some art supplies, everyone seems to crowd around. I drew a face and labeled everything in English, then in Portuguese, then in Ndau and taped it on one of the dorm walls. We ended up making a whole body.
I wonder if and when my novelty is going to wear off. Today they forgot to feed me breakfast, so I went to the market and bought some oranges, bananas and bread. on the way back from the market, a cart pulled by bulls took me back to the girl’s center.
Today I asked about capoeira. They know what it is, but say that only men do it. So we played around and then I showed them some things and they were exited. So I am exited! I really want it to go somewhere. These girls are open to anything I teach them or tell them. I took out pictures the I took along, and they examined each one thoroughly. I finally got to explain I am not soooo MUZUNGU (white) as they think, they called me msench (black) in the pictures I have with my beautiful Blondie Reyna. I have so much to show them and teach them, but all in moderation. I can’t even charge my computer battery here! I don't think it will last the next 2 weeks!
Aug 26 / 09
I am still wondering when the novelty of palm trees is going to wear off. I’m taking the opportunity to enjoy the free, natural scenery with the backdrop of a rising or setting sun and palm trees constant. Much better then the ones that grow in planters in the Polo Park shopping mall.
It has been a full week since I have been here. In ways it feels like I have been here longer then that, because I already feel at home, and in ways I look ahead and long to be able to communicate and explore freely.
I started out my solo journeys today.
“Solzinha!?” (alone!?) The girls asked. Everyone gets a kick that the white person speaks some Ndau when they greet me Matakatira, and I answer : Takatira, Kuvat Kwen’u”. Greetings are very important, and it is not like Canada where you can awnser with the same greeting > there is always a special response to each greeting and certain times of day to say them, and everyone says them so I get lots of practice!
I went to ask the 2ndary school of Machanga if I could somehow get some teaching to help with my Portuguese. It resulted in me sitting under a tree eating tangerines with the Portuguese schoolteacher for 3 hours conjugating verbs, which is exactly what I needed. Most of the teachers are very young, and have probably less then grade 12 schooling for subjects like physics or chemistry. The Portuguese teacher is not even 22 yet! Nonetheless I learnt a lot.
This morning Casilda took me to Dondo, a small community some kilometers off. We rode in the back of a truck with other locals and their bags of goodies they intended to sell at other communities. As me and Casilda sit across from each other, she makes sure my lenco (head scarf) is tied on tight, since we are sitting in the back of a fast moving truck, no seatbelts. Then she goes on to tell everyone the funny things I tell her like : When my mom calls and says “Good morning, how are you” I will respond in Portuguese saying “sorry Mama, I don't understand you, I can only speak Ndau and Portuguese”. I say what I can in my broken language.
Since I am starting to fit in quite well, they have stopped feeding me breakfast. I usually get a loaf of bread delivered to my table, while the other girls only eat 2 meals a day. I, in Canada, am a continuous eater, so I miss my food and NEED it in the morning. I love going to the market with Maria. We must be such a sight: a white Mzungu with the one legged Msench. I bought a kilo of peanuts for less then $1.50. I grabbed a handful only to realize I have to soak, dry and roast them myself. So I did that today, and am afraid I have been protein deprived and just overloaded on peanuts this evening, and for breakfast ate a load of chocolate I brought. If anyone wants to send a care package, I think I would really enjoy some chocolate, or sweets of some kind! J I still have a couple weeks until I get some Internet, and only a small bit of battery left, but I will try and savor it.
Im not sure if it moves slowly here because the hotness, the mentality, or perhaps they are protein deprived, but there is a lot of slow moving action which is contrary to what im used to. It doesn't really bother me though, it is just the way it is. They even have a verb “Passear” > to pass time which they use frequently because there is a lot of time to pass.
Aug 30 / 09
Im not sure what awes me more: a 13 year old zipping down the curvy, bumpy, dust path in flip-flops, or a 75 year old man doing the same thing bare foot. One thing is for sure, people are hearty, and this includes the babies. The way mothers whirl a child onto their back by the arm and tie them up with a capolana, plunder into a chapa crowded with others, or sit on the back of the tailgate of a moving truck with the baby still slung on the back hanging over. Children seem to be walking and carrying unusually heavy things, in arms and on heads, at unusually young ages. Perhaps they know that the north, things are not so intense, so they seem to aid me in anything I do. I am a strong person, I can pump my own bath water, and carry it to the bathing area, Im a big girl! Well, I guess I should indulge the pampering for now, because sooner then later I will wish it could be so again.
Today we went to church in Dondo, a community with a Christian church. It is 9 kilometers away, and yes, we walked. I am a runner, and have run 9 kilometers easy, it is different when it is a different heat, as well as everyone walks very slowly. I had to catch myself several times and stop and wait because I walked too fast. They like to take their time… I too will learn this.
The church service once again was in Ndau, and I had to make a speech, this time I did so in English and there was a man who could translate a bit. I have never seen such an old woman jump so high and pound the ground so hard with her feet in dance until now> I danced with the elder woman of the church, in front of the whole congregation. Cheers and ‘leleleleleleeesss’ carried us on.
I only got lunch around 3:30pm. I was STARVING! This morning Casilda gave me a special traditional drink. It is some fermented cornmeal drink. It has a sprite-like bubbles, but is thick like a shake. It is more pleasant when adding sugar. Perhaps its like an energy shake. She gave me a whole picture of the stuff and says it will last a while. Im not sure if ill be able to down the whole thing. They really monitor what I like and not as much. I do like beans, so I got it for lunch and supper. I was given French fries for breakfast yesterday, which I ate with my freshly roasted peanuts.
Today we had our first CAPOEIRA lesson! I was so exited. I feel like I can teach them anything and they are SO exited and into it! We ginga’ed and I showed them kicks, dodges, handstands, back-walk-overs etc. which they all loved to try. We were covered in dust. That is one thing about Machanga… it is very dusty.
I saw my first MAMBA! COBRA… it was huge… by the bomba (water pump)
Friday, me and Casilda went to Mambone across the crocodile river Sauvé, and spent the day visiting friends’ huts and spent some hours making lunch with her Tia (aunt) who has no legs. She had a young boy, Pedro, helping her out. She sent him to get us some bottled cokes, which he was ordered to open them. This meant by using his teeth. It hurt me watching.
I have had an encounter with some men who are very serious about me taking them to Canada. The problem is they speak English quite well and so I can't play innocent by ‘not understanding the language’. The whole encounter was strange. I was with my friend Moses who is teaching Portuguese and some men overheard about the Mazungu and came to his house to talk to me. Very flattering people, but I can tell they have bad intentions and just want to use me to get out of here. Unfortunately they got a hold of my number from Moses, and so when one of them called I gave the phone to Casilda, whom I explained the situation, and she pretended like it was her phone and she did not know me. This kind of experience is only the beginning.
Sept. 2 / 09 > soccer and sunsets
I don't know how to explain the feeling of playing soccer bare-foot with 30 + Ndau girls while the sun creates the most beautiful backdrop! I really can’t get over it. Like I have said, I have never felt so white in my life. I go to Zavava, one of the few school campuses to ‘passaiar’ (pass time/ chill out) and play soccer in the evenings. I went the other day and asked one person if they knew anyone who plays Capoeira. I met a guy who knows some things about capoeira, and we sat and talked. What began as me and him talking resulted in about 45- 55 other boys surrounding, listening to our conversation, some even bold enough to ask the white-girl a question or add something in. other wise it was like I was a show. I have never had so much attention. I left the mob, laughing, to go play soccer. The mob followed. Every time the ball came to me or I touched it sounds alarmed, in jokes, in curiosity, I am not really sure. But I now go to the market ‘solzinhia’ and the locals know who I am and what I can reply back in Ndau.
I sometimes think the community is just joking with the kind of priority they give me. They make old women sit on the floor so I can sit in a chair. I try to resist but they always win. I have even named a set of newborn twins. No joke. I went to the local hospital with one of the girls to see her aunty who just had some twins. The next day I got a call and was asked to name them. I wrote a list of generic North American names, and they liked Jane and Stephanie the best. Perhaps they will name a sports complex after me??? If they get one.
Yesterday me and Tia Casilda took a trip out to Dondo. I really go just for the ride. I like sitting in the back of the cab, although they occasionally make me sit in the front because I am ‘special’. Unfortunately the chapa returned to Machanga early and we ended up walking the 9 kilometers back. Of course I didn't have any water with me and was in flip-flops, but I made it without complaints. What can you do. Worse can happen and I should prepare myself.
SUCCESS! I killed RATO! (rato = mouse)
Sept. 5 / 09 other Muzungus!?
So I have been told that other Muzungus (whites) living in Machanga, and a couple days ago we had our first encounter. At first glace, it was actually more strange and uncomfortable then I would imagine seeing another white person. Richard and Lee are 2 Americans who are working with the Peace Corps as school teachers. It was difficult at first to speak English and we talked in Portuguese for the first little bit. It was really great to meet some people who have lived here for a year to give some advice, and heads-ups (eg. They are on the same malaria meds as I am> I should be expecting paranoia and vivid dreams any time soon). They make trips around Mozambique and I am hoping to tag along one time to see more of this country. They live in luxury compared to me too > they have a stove and even bake cookies and pancakes… we are going to be great friends I can tell. Lee even went to another district and picked me up some peanut butter. This is great because the ducks and goats keep eating my peanuts I put out to dry in the sun.
I have been living off of rice every day… only had shima twice and they realized I eat more rice then shima, so they only feed me rice. They are trying to fatten me up though… I recently had my first ‘salad’ > they usually don't have any veggies RAW because of bugs and sicknesses. But I am ‘special’ so they made me a salad… all I can say is> would you like some lettuce with that oil?
I have pulled out my sketchbook and have sketched some things such as a baby on a mothers back. I did a sketch of Tia Casilda as she sat beside me and it is the newest excitement. I have a feeling they will want me to sketch them all eventually.
This morning I woke up and the girls were already to work when I left my room, stomping in clay and sand and straw and water. It was apparently time to re-plaster the sides of the dorms because the walls were dry and cracking apart. I, from helping build a red-clay kiln with my hands, am somewhat familiar with the mud in-between my toes and got right in there with them.
I am making ‘friends’ with many people. Have been asked to be a girlfriend of more people then I can count (from ages 13 – 60, married or not) and to be the wife of 3 people. They ask these questions before they even know my name. I have made friends with store owners, and today as I went in to buy some crackers for a snack the lady who owns this shop called me into the back and put some fresh bolos (deep-fried dough covered in sugar – like a donut) into a bag for me. Anything sweet is a treat.
Sept. 9 / 09 Drama follows the one who lets it happen
September 7th is Mozambique’s day of victory. From what I understand it is the day of independence from Portugal. So it was a day off and the local schools put on entertainment. It was the most technology I have ever seen present in Machanga: 2 very fuzzy microphones a speaker blasted at an uncomfortable level that made voice coming out of it another language all together, and some kind of CD player to play music. It was neat to see so many people crowded in the same place to watch traditional dance, theater, inspirational talks etc. under a cluster of trees> somba > shade. Shade is talked of often. It is getting hot and whenever one stops for a break, you stop in the somba.
Although the drama may have left the Goertz household, it is now present in the American Board Girls Center (center de mininas). I am not intentionally doing so, it just happens. While me and the girls were watching Machanga vs. Mambone men’s soccer game on the day of victory, of course I am spotted and am prime target to practice English. One gentleman came to ask questions, then I am told by the girls that he is not a good guy and a word I very well recognize “pelegozo” > dangerous. So I refused his offer to go for a drink, fanta, beer or whatever. Then the next day he ended up coming to the center twice, in the morning and the evening. I was totally unaware and both Tia’s had to tell him to get and all the girls were gathered behind. I wondered what all the commotion was and went over and realized it was my fault. We laughed about it all, but I hope I don't create too many problems.
I was starting to feel like I just wanted to be apart of these crazy Ndau conversations. No one would understand me if I started speaking English. I feel so miss understood… just when I felt so a kitten wandered into my room! For real. It made my night. I didn't care how dirty the thing was, I named it Meetzy and fed it my fish I had for supper and gave it a shirt to cuddle it. It now follows me wherever I go and everyone laughs at me because it is strange to care for animals like people and to have it in your house. It ended up peeing in my room, so I understand. I will let her in only when I have rats. She made me so happy just at the right time.
The American Board Church has a huge woman’s conference that started on the 8th. I was anxious to go, and ready to leave that morning. Terns out Tia wasn't ready, so we waited till the evening. Then found out chapas were not running. Lets just save my words and say this: I am not a big fan of the waiting game. So I was ready to leave early this morning, but Tia was not ready to leave, and by the time we left chapas were still not running. Luckily when we got there we caught a ride. The conference was in Ndau and Sena, another language equally uncomprehendable for myself. We ended up sitting for over four and a half hours with breaks of dancing. Perhaps I now see why Tia wasn't so anxious to go. I did have to make another speech upfront and danced in front of everyone with my favorite elders again.
We luckily caught a chapa back for cheep and didn't have to walk the way back. I got the honor of the front middle. The steering wheel was way out of line and to steel the wheels straight the wheel is turned 90 degrees, the door is held closed by a strong arm and once popped off its hinges! I gasped, and was laughed at by the woman who studied me, my every move and inch, up and down. This is just the way it goes.
People here are also not shy to touch and observe with hands. Many people seem to have the need to touch my hair, or if I have a speck of dust, a bug, even my birth mark they must touch it or pick at it. These are just people I sit / stand among in crowds, chapas or on the street.
Off to Beira tomorrow on a long chapa drive. The drivers promised me the front again. Hurray, apparently the best seat in the house,,, but I am sure it's the most uncomfortable: the stick shift beside the knee, no back rest, knees in the front dashboard and between the driver and the money-collector/ luggage-loader boy.
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